Writer: Tony Huntimer
Application: 1968 Camaro
Fitting 255/40/17 front tires
Fitting 275/40/17 rear tires



Before you read through my article on how I got my wide tires and
wheels to fit on my '68 Camaro, you should read my disclaimer and
you should know that if you apply my information to your car, you
may get varied results due to manufacturing defects or tolerances,
slightly different parts or part numbers, wear or damage to
suspension, body, and frame, and wheel, body panel, and frame
alignment.

PICTURES OF FRONT WHEEL ADAPTERS


Front Baer brake rotor
Vette Brakes 2 inch billet adapter
Vette Brakes 2 inch billet adapter -front side
Vette Brakes adapter mounted on rotor -you can see the lug nut heads sticking out past mounting surface
Back side of wheel has relief holes for lug nut heads -very few wheels have these relief holes


As for tires and wheels...I am running 17x8.5 with 7 1/8 inches backspacing in
wheels on all four corners. They are front Corvette wheels off a 2000 Vette. The Corvettes
have 18 inch wheels in the rear. But I had an opportunity to pic up
four front wheels so I did. In the front I am running 255x40x17
Yokohama AVS's. In the rear I am running 275x40x17 Yokohama AVS's.
Since the wheels are extremely "positive offset" (bolting surface is
really close to the outward side of wheel) I bought some 2 inch billet
aluminum adapters for the front wheels. With these adapters, I have
5 1/8 inches of backspacing. I bought them from
www.vettebrakes.com If you get some, make sure you get the adapters
that have "flush" mounted lug nuts, otherwise, when bolting the adapter
to the brake rotor, the lugs will stick out past the wheel mating
surface and the wheel won't bolt to the adapter. They are pretty
strong. I run 1/2 inch studs on the brake rotor and the adapters have
1/2 inch studs too. Vette Brakes says they run these on race cars, so I
figure I won't break them. Just to clarify, a spacer is a lot different
from an adapter. An adapter actually bolts to the rotor and then the
wheel bolts to the adapter. I am clarifying, because I don't want to
assume everyone knows the difference. :) I am having a little issue with the
front wheels hitting the sway bar when I turn the wheels at fully
locked position. I have not dealt with this issue yet. The front tires
will not fit without major modifications to the stock front fenderwells
so I took them out. The front fender lips still rubbed the tires while
going over bumps, so I rolled the fender lips to aleviate that. You can see
that I have no front fenderwells in some of my pics. I plan on building some
custom front fenderwells to keep the road grime and water from getting
all over the engine. The new fenderwells will be made out of aluminum
but they will be painted or anodized black.


In the rear, I put a Ford 9 inch rear end out of a 1976 Lincoln Mark 4
with stock 11 inch disk brakes. This is different from the famed
Lincoln Verailes rear end. The difference is, the Mark 4 rear has heavy
duty housing, large bearing ends, has the larger 11 inch vented rear disk
brakes, and it is wider. Since it was wider than the Versailes and the
stock Camaro rear end, I was able to bolt on the positive offset
wheels. I ordered Dutchman Motorsports alloy 31 spline axles with Chevy bolt
pattern (5 on 4 3/4). I told them the kind of rear end I had and they
took care of me on the length of the axles. I had to cut off the Mark 4
coil spring perches and weld on leaf spring perches (which can be
purchased at a speed shop). I used an angle guage and checked the stock
10 bolt pinion angle and setup the 9inch to be the same. I measured the
difference between spring perch angle and pinion angle. I found this
was cheaper than having a custom made rear end since I initially built
this car on a budget since I was in college at the time I built the
car. I picked up the rear end at a wrecking yard for $250 with all the
brake parts included. They come with 28 spline axles, so I initially
picked up a 31 spline 3.00 non-posi rear end out of a truck for $40 at
the wrecking yard, so my racing 31 spline axles would work. Now that I
have more money, I bought a 3.50 posi unit from a friend.
If you get lucky, you can find these units at wrecking yards
for dirt cheap and you can check the clutches before you even turn a
wrench to get them out of the rear end. Normally the rear ends have
gear tags on them so you can tell what ratio they are and you will be
able to tell if the seals and gears are good by inspecting them once you
get them out. If you have money to blow, just get yourself a new rear
end from Currie Ent. , Dutchman Motorsports , or some other rearend
speciality shop and it will be exaclty the way you want it.

After all that...I had to use a 1/4 inch "spacer" in the rear because of
the tire size, and after "rolling" the rear fender lip, the tires fit
great. The backside of my tires rub a little bit on the inside of the wheelwell
when pulling into driveways at an angle, but only a little bit.
My friend says that you can fit a 315x35x17 inch tire in the
rear fenderwell without tubbing the car...but the tire wouldn't have
space to move. So, everyone who puts 315's in the rear, have to
mini-tub the rear wheelwells. Have you checked Detroit Speed
& Engineering
? If not, check "Twister Camaro" and then
look at "construction". It will show you the fenderwells being
widened. When it comes to moving the springs inward, you can put "weld
in" sub-frame connectors from Moroso and that will move the front leaf
spring perch inward a few inches. The rear spring perch is the trickier
modification. Detroit Speed & Engineering made a custom aluminum bolt
in relocation kit for the rear perches. Contact them. I am pretty sure
they can make you a set or point you in the right direction on how to do
it yourself and it would probably be more cost effective than cutting
and welding the rear frame rails.

My brakes. The fronts are Baer 6769Fbody 13" brake kit mounted on 74 Chevy Nova
disc brake spindles with a rotor upgrade for the drilled and slotted. The rear
brakes are the 76 Mark 4 brakes, The rotors were re-drilled to fit the Chevy bolt
pattern. The brake master cylinder is a manual Raybestos Vette 4 wheel disc
unit. PN#MC36367

My '68 was originally equipped with four wheel manual drum brakes. When
I did my first "rebuild" I added disc brakes from a '74 Chevy Nova. I went to the
wrecking yard and bought spindles, rotors, calipers, and hardware off of a '74 Nova.
I replaced all the bearings, seals, and calipers. It was cheaper than buying the
kit from a brake company out of the magazine. For my first "rebuild" I used a 79
Trans Am 4 wheel disk power booster and master, but the larger valve covers
won't clear the booster, so I swapped back to a manual master. I might switch
my manual master cylinder for a small diameter power booster and a different master.

If you are going to use any of this info to apply it to your Camaro...have fun
and I hope my info helped.











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